South Edisto River - Day 16

South Edisto River - Day 16

An early departure so we don't miss the Ben Sawyer Swing Bridge before we enter Charleston Harbor at the 9 am opening. The current is fast in this area and we were successful in catching the rising tide in Charleston Harbor. The Wapoo Bascule Bridge is 9 miles away so we had to be fleet a foot to catch it. We made it there by 10 am and were informed the electrician was repairing the bridge so we had to wait to till 10:30. Not a big deal since we did not have long of a run today.

We stopped off at Ross Marine to get fuel. The dockhand, John, said didn't you come through this spring. And were there not two guys on the boat? Not bad since Chris and I stopped there before heading out of Charleston in April.

It was a cloudy day with some NE winds pushing us along. We timed it so we would run the dreaded Dawho River at high tide. Then boom there was the McKinley Washington Bridge, one hour past high tide reading 63 ft and a few inches, so we threw out the anchor and waited.

After an hour and chatting with Yvonne, we slid under the bridge and made the last 4 miles to our anchorage on the South Edisto, a broad and fast flowing stream. With good scope we settled in for a nice sunset and dinner. It turned out to be a longer day than we expected.

Data: 07:20 to 17;25. Engine hours 115. Refueled at Ross Marine mile 475, 34.5 gals at 978 hours. Net 34 hours or 1.0 gal per hour. (Fair tides).

Dewees Creek, SC - Day 15

Up a creek.

We slipped the lines from Georgetown at dawn. The wind abated as we caught the last of the outgoing tide on Winyah Bay for 4 miles until the AICW made an sharp right.

This run is inside the marshes that boarder the ocean and is isolated except for the odd cluster of homes that connect to the mainland side. McClellandville is the only burgh on this run until you reach the outskirts of Charleston.

We elected to make a short day of it to stage a fair tide run in Charleston Bay the next morning. The swing bridge 8 miles away is restricted until 9 am so we will leave about 90 minutes prior to ensure that we catch that opening.

Of the many anchorages east of Charleston we selected Dewees Creek for its depth and lack of shoaling. This creek was in the midst of vast marshgrass plain intertwined with winding creeks. We picked an unnamed branch NE of the main channel and set the hook in 25 ft of water at high tide. The winds blew 15-20 knts and the current was fast, so we moved around quite a bit.

We see that Tropical Storm Noel is forecasted to hit SE Florida on Wednesday and then move the NE over the Bahamas. We plan on being in Port Royal Thursday noon which should be in time in case Noel decides to visit the Carolina coast.

Data: 07:20 to 13:40. Engine hours 974.

Georgetown, SC - Day 13 and 14

Georgetown, SC - Day 13

Oh, those bridges.

Our friends Karen and Jim Sinkway took us up on our offer to ride to Georgetown with us and have lunch on the Julep. Georgetown is 30 minutes by car from their house and 3 hours for the Julep.

A high pressure system was bringing in northerly winds and the temperatures that had been in the 80's dropped to a chilly low 70's. We had a mid day run against the tide down the Waccamaw River, broad and deep. Jim enjoyed navigating at the helm. We ran under the genoa as we had lunch.

We passed Sandy Island where freed slaves settled after the war. The white boat in the pix is the school bus boat that delivers the kids across the Waccamaw each day.

The fixed bridge at Georgetown presented a high tide problem. Tide calculations showed we would clear it by one foot. We drifted under the bridge barely avoiding getting hung up in the wires hanging from the lights under the bridge. The flexible VHF antennae bent over almost to its base and we cleared the bridge by 6-12 inches. Whew!

We pulled into Georgetown Landing Marina and did a quick tour in the car Sinkway's dropped off in the morning. Ruth was disappointed that in SC many shops do not open on Sunday. After viewing many of the fabulous old homes in Georgetown, one of SC oldest cities, Karen saved the day by directing us to the Hammock Shops. This is a collection of boutiques for women. There were no guys walking around, just women. Jim and I quickly drove to the hardware store down the road.

While the women shopped, we visited the Murrell's Inlet beach front and homes. They own and manage some rental homes there. The area is nice and much like the NJ shore, but as Jim says the water is warmer.

We had dinner and they dropped us off at the Julep. It was nice to spend some time with them and laugh about old times and catch up on things.

Our review of the weather forecast showed high winds for next few days, especially for Monday. We decided to lay over in Georgetown on Monday. Maybe the shops will open.

Data: 11:15 to 14:00. Engine hours 968.

Wacca Wache - Day 12

An afternoon run.

Following a layover Friday because a steady rain, we left at noon due to the high tides. There are 6 fixed height brides along Myrtle Beach and with the spring tides we had to be careful.

The skies cleared after an early am rain and the day provided a pleasant run along the canal. The boat traffic was surprising light, so we must be at the front edge of the surge. Many insurance companies have restricted boaters below Beaufort, NC before Nov 1 which has placed a two week delay on the normal migration. Our policy restricts us to not be south of Cumberland Island, Ga before Nov 1.

The Rockpile at North Myrtle Beach was its usual ball of laughs as one does not migrate from the center of the channel for fear of hitting the huge rocks alongside. We did not encounter a barge heading north like we did last year.

The big resorts line the waterway with golfers playing next to us as we move along. The overhead cable cars carry would be Tigers to the next hole at one resort. The unfavorable tide slowed our progress till we just made the 15:45 opening of the Socastee Swing Bridge. The tide became fair as we made 9-10 mph below this point.

One of the most scenic stretches of the AICW is along the Waccamaw south of Myrtle Beach. Cypress swamps and Spanish Moss abound. The 10 mile run in the late afternoon was made unaccompanied and was a real joy.

We made reservations at the Wacca Wache Marina just off the Waterway. Our friends Karen and Jim Sinkway moved to the Wacca Wache Plantation six years ago from Yardley and we made plans to enjoy the evening together. The expansive Plantation is an elegant development where the live oaks were retained providing that southern stately aire to the streets. Originally it was two large rice plantations along the river.

We had a great seafood dinner at a local restaurant and visited Karen and Jim's lovely home for cake. Their daughter Rebecca made it home from work in time for us to see her as well. She will going off to college next year and hopes to go to Charleston.

Data: 12:00 to 17:15. Engine hours 965.

Little River, SC - Day 10 and 11

Spring Tides

We expressed our disappointment with the dockmaster in the morning. Sue was surprised the dockhand had placed us inside the T dock. The spring tide had some impact but maybe 05-0.75 ft on the low tide depth. We will check Julep's keel out in Jacksonville, but don't expect any problems.

Ok, it looked like we had a weather window today. Friday's forecast called for 90% chance of rain and we did not want to run the Cape Fear River with limited visibility. So here we go.

With the spring tide, we again like last year had to wait until the morning tide fell three feet before we could clear the Carolina Beach Bridge. We pulled away from the dock at 10:45 and made the bridge by 1.5 ft. Entering the Cape Fear River below Wilmington, we ran 9 knots with the fair tide. The river was calm and made for a nice passage. The ferry boats from Southport were making their runs across the channel. We encountered only one barge northbound.

A hard right at Southport and we were heading again along the AICW inside the barrier islands. This is one of the trickiest stretches of the waterway. Numerous intersecting inlets create shoals and nasty cross currents. The worse part was that not only were we transiting at low tide, it was a spring tide which drops the level an additional 0.5 - 1.0 ft. It is imposing when you run alongside the docks and see 6-ft of exposed pilings due to the low water depth.

Entering northern section of Lockwood's Folly at dead low tide, the first of these inlets, we encountered the ketch Sophia and as we approached she went aground. As we slowed, a fisherman told Ruth that the channel was to port and so we wound our way around Sophia and along the channel to clear water. We then threaded our way across the main inlet entrance (there are lots of these intersections as the ocean inlets fracture among the intervening shoals islands) without major problems, just 7-8 ft of water is all.

The worse was Shallotte's Inlet where the crossed shoals at 5.5 to 6 ft. We are basically skimming across the sands. You would never do this across the rocks in New England.

We finally reached the Sunset Beach Pontoon Bridge, a cute one lane contraption, that swings on a cable. The operator reminds boaters to stand back after he opens the bridge so the cable can drop to the channel bottom before passage is made. A few pix are provided. The tide was so low at mid afternoon that he had to delay the 2 and 3 pm openings until the tide rose permitting him to swing the bridge. We cleared at 4pm without an issue.

A final hour run past the Little River Inlet with the rising tide was accomplished without issue. Sandy at Coquina Yacht Harbour checked us in good order.

Our friend from U of I days, Jim Kessler from Wilmington, joined us for dinner. Jim drove the hour to see us. Unfortunately, Jana had some last things to do at home before they flew to St Louis for the weekend, so we missed seeing her We will see the both of them next spring.

We hooked up with Sean, Yvonne and the little ones using Skype. This is an internet based phone/video connection that is free from computer to computer. We able to see them and visa versa using the camera on our Mac and the camera/mic Yvonne bought for their computer. It was great seeing them. A wonderful grandparents device. You can signup by Googling Skype.

Data: 10:45 to 17:15. Engine hours 959. Refuel 24.2 gals at Oceana at 953 hours for 14 net hrs or 1.8 gals/hr.

Carolina Beach, NC - Day 9

Sideways.

A morning heavy rain greeted us in Swansboro. We had decided the night before to lay over, but the forecast for the following day Thursday was even less encouraging. The radar looked like much of the heavy weather would fall slightly inland. We decided to head south inside the beaches of NC.

The first hour did not reinforce our decision. Rains so heavy we could not see ahead required that we navigate electronically. Our enclosure (thanks Vicky) kept us dry until the weather broke. The rest of the day was bright and blustery.

So many people were enjoying the waterway. Picnicking on the beaches, many fishing and running the waters. Some of the homes are too much and of course you always have to take a pix of the giraffe at Wrightsville Beach.

Much of the run involved staging the bridge openings that operated fixed schedules. Mint Julep's speed was a great benefit in making the openings. The currents change frequently as you pass from one inlet to the next. The inlets provide the most risk in grounding by pushing the boat to the side of the channel. You have to pay attention to your actual track and not just where you are heading.

We cleared the Wrightsville Beach bridge at 16:00 and made the last 11 miles to Carolina Beach by 17:20. The Carolina Beach Inlet is always a grounding risk. A dredge barge was stationed there to clear the intersection with the AICW. Temporary markers helped navigate the narrow opening between the shoals.

We arrived at Oceana Marina, a favorite stopover right above the Carolina Beach Bridge, our old nemesis, but more about that tomorrow. The Marina had been sold over the summer, as the past owner was hurt by contractor delays in getting it ready for the summer season. This is a very pretty marina with hardwood docks. It is a pitty that so few boats are using it.

Dinner aboard and a brief walk around the neighborhood before retiring.

Somewhere around 01:30 in the morning, Ruth awoke and said the boat is sideways. I figured we had swung off the dock. No, sideways means leaning sideways. She checks the depth finder and sees 4.9 ft. Great, the Julep is setting on the bottom. We check outside and sure enough she is leaning against the floating dock. Plenty of fenders were attached so she was cushioned. We had asked the dockhand when calling ahead about the depth at dockside and she said it was 7 ft. Big screw up by the marina.

Data: 08:30 to 17:20. Engine hours 953.

Swansboro, NC - Day 8

The Bays

An early am rain began the day. The Adams Creek run is very scenic with wild areas and flippers. We transitioned into small homes and developments along the waterway. We were pushing the tide for an hour or so until we reached Jerrett Bay Marina along the waterway at mile 198 for a refuel.

We then skirted a dredge that was clearing out Core Creek below the marina and ran into 5.8 ft of water (we draw 5.5 ft) on the eastern side. That caused a shutter. A quick jog brought us closer in near the barge, but gave us clear water to run by. Close call.

We took some heavy rain as the fair run began down the Newport River. 9+ knots with the current is a blast until you remember that you are barrelling into a bridge opening at Morehead city. There are these little fishing boats millling around, tugs moving about. You cannot slow down too much because the current rips through the bridge and you have to maintain steerage. All was fine and we zipped into the turning basin at Morehead City and hung a hard right inside the barrier islands at Atlantic Beach.

This is quite a transition. One minute you are inland and navigating creeks, then suddenly you are in the sounds off the ocean. The water changes from chamoflage to blue green. The sea breezes pickup and there you are heading south inside the coast.

This stretch of the AICW has some shallow segments, so you cannot stray from the channel. We made the run down the coast with James Taylor. Cheese toasties (for those not from Illinois, these are grilled cheese sandwiches) and rice soup made a sunny day just perfect.

We pulled into one of our favorite marinas, Casper's in Swansboro. Some shopping at the small shops in town and a great dinner at the Ice House made the day.

We meet more nice people when we stay at Capser's. This year we met Charlie and Barry from Richmond. They are moving Barry's sailboat to St James below Wilmington. They keep their sailboats in Deltaville, so we hope to catch them next spring.

Data: 07:30 to 15:30. Engine hours . 70 gallons at Jerrett Bay at 938 hours or 26 elapsed or 2.6 gal/hr. 944 hours at Swansboro.

Cedar Creek - Day 7

Cedar Creek or bust.

Calm night on the Pungo. There were 12 boats on the River overnight. Weighed anchor at 07:00 with a slight pink in the sky. Ran down the Pungo past Belhaven, a popular anchorage and marina. Since they did not have the oyster fritters last year for Ruth, they did not get our business this year.

Another dozen or so boats departed Belhaven, so this gives you some idea of the amount of south bound cruising traffic on the AICW. Almost like I-95.

We unfurled our genoa for the crossing of the Pamlico River and steamed into Goose Creek past the Hobuken Coast Guard station on the Mayo shipyard (see pix) By 11:00 we were heading again into the Pamlico and making for the Neuse River. You might notice that we have milemarkers just like PennDot.

The SE wind gave us nice push up the Neuse River where we furled the genoa before entering Adams Creek above Beaufort, NC. We decided an early anchor was in order since the Newport River was flooding and would be strongly against us. We will catch the fair tide tomorrow am.

We anchored in seven ft in a popular anchorage in Cedar Creek. The sunken sailboat was not enough of a deterrent (see pix).

Our grandson Logan landed nearby to visit for dinner. See pix.

Data: 07:00 to 14:00. Engine hours 937. 60 statute miles.

Pungo River - Day 6

Fog!

An early morning exit from Coinjock before sunrise and there we were in a fog bank just south of the bridge. A fine fellow announced on the radio that the fog cleared after his leaving the canal. And he was right. See pix of fog.

The North Landing River winds its way south through the marshes for 20 miles before it empties into the Albemarle Sound. Some of you may recall that the Albemarle is a notoriously nasty body of water due to its shallow depth. The dredged channel of 9-12 ft is bounded by 2-4 ft of shoals. You don't wander from the channel. Today we experienced the nicest day on the Sound of all our passages. Light breeze and blue skies made for a perfect morning.

The run out of Coinjock sees many radio calls for speedy powerboats to slow when passing sailboats. The conversations get entertaining requiring the Coast Guard to periodically step in and remind folks that Channel 16 is for hailing and emergency calls only. The powerboats are heading to run the Sounds just inside the outer banks and have to put up with the sailboats and trawlers who enjoy the scenery for these 10 miles.

After the two hour crossing of the Sound, we entered the twisting shoals at the mouth of the Alligator River and raced for the swing bridge that links the mainland and the outer banks of NC. We had to wait only 5 minutes before the tender opened the span and we headed south on the 20 mile run up the Alligator. Our last crossing was rough, but this perfect day continued with a great BBQ sandwich for lunch. A few turns to west and we enter the 24 mile long Alligator - Pungo Canal, a series of long straight shots built by the Army Core. This canal is boardered by stumps and a few rustic homes.

At 15:30 we slowly cleared the dreaded Wilkerson Bridge (only 64 ft clearance) and turned north off the Waterway up the Pungo River. The hook hit bottom at 16:00 and we spoke with the kids and our friend George who had just made it to Charleston from Rock Hall with his crew.

Data: 06:45 to 16:00. 930 engine hours. 78 statute miles (71 kmiles).

Coinjock, Va - Day 5

What a reception.

Today is bridge day. Six opening bridges to go 50 miles. The number of boats was approximately half of those last year. We departed Portsmouth at daybreak and made our way through three bridges. The ship traffic was light. A clear and mild day for traveling.

After clearing the Steel Bridge in Portsmouth and putting the hammer down for the lock at Great Bridge, Va (see pix 1), Julep's engine stalled. A fuel filter no doubt. We pulled into the Centerville Marina and changed the filters just in time to make the bridge opening 100 ft to the south. After that she ran like a top.

Yesterday, we spoke to the mates on Purely Pleasure, a huge go-fast boat (see pix 2). We saw their boat at Pleasure Cove Marina in Pasadena, Md last month. They made the trip from Pasadena to Portsmouth in five hours. (150 miles and enough fuel to buy MInt Julep).


A fast run down the North Landing River and into Currituck Sound. This Sound lies within the outer banks which is more famous for Kitty Hawk and Duck. The wind picked up and it was a brisk run south into Coinjock. The current was swift but we made the dock without a hitch. The crowd greeting us on the shore was much appreciated as seen in the accompanying picture. Dinner at Crabbie's and the Illinois Michigan game.

Data: 07:15 to 16:00. 920.7 engine hours. 49 statute miles (the Army Core of Eng manages the AICW so statute miles here south).

Portsmouth, Va - Day 3 and 4

Flipper and traffic.

We weighed anchor at daybreak in order to make Portsmouth by early afternoon. It was another fine morning heading south into a slight breeze. Showers were possible as the clouds moved in late morning, but the rain held off until late afternoon.

We counted nine sailboats leaving the Piankatank. Add to that the four trawlers and that makes for a lot of folks heading for Florida. You can hear the radio chatter in French, as many boats are from Canada. Mint Julep is running at the head of the pack and leaves all the sailboats and most of the trawlers behind as she passes Wolftrap Light north of the York River entrance.

As we approach the Hampton Roads area, naval vessels and freighters appeared on the horizon. Then Ruth cries , "Flipper". Sure enough we were in Seaworld with porpoises jumping alongside. One was just a few feet from the port quarter.

Crossing the Thimble Shoals bar on the north side of the Hampton Roads channel we had to jog behind a massive container ship entering from the Atlantic. Making our way south along the eastern edge of the Elizabeth River shipping channel we passed four aircraft carriers in the Norfolk yards. This is the busiest waterway we experience with all the barges, freighters, naval vessels, Homeland Security boats and tugs moving along. This does not include the many pleasure craft that ply these waters. On top of it all, this is the only entrance to the AICW (Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway) which begins at the Naval Hospital at Mile 0.

We planned to anchor in the bay just below the Hospital, but 8-10 boats were already lying there. The numerous crab-pots limited the open space. We refueled at Tidewater Yacht marina and with the storm forecasts for the next day, we elected to take a slip for two nights and hunker down.

A nice snow-crab and seafood dinner at the Marina restaurant over looking the lights across the river at Norfolk made a nice close to a busy day.

Data: 7:15 to 13:30. 50 kmiles. 913 engine hours. 50 gallons of fuel for 23 net hours or 2.1 gal/hour.

Piankatank River - Day 2

Finding an anchorage south of Deltaville, Va.

An early departure from the Solomon's provided a pleasant morning on the Chesapeake heading into light southerly winds. Late morning found us still motoring at 8.4 knots with favorable tide across the mouth of the Potomac River. We made the lighthouse at Smith Point in good time and the tidal flow at the south end of the River intersection at the lighthouse is always a bit stronger helping us even more.

We passed Windmill Point on the northern bank of the Rappahannock with freshening winds out of the SE. We skirted Stingray Point where John Smith was stung exactly 400 years ago. We did not see the historical marker.

The Piankatank River forms the southern edge of the middle Virginia neck where Deltaville, a popular stopover, lies. After reading the guidebook, Milford Haven, inside Gwynn Island on the south side of the Piankatank sounded like a well protected area to anchor. We entered through the swing bridge into a very rustic creek with worn down wharfs and crab processing houses. After entering a side creek recommended as a good anchorage, we spun Julep around and just avoided the shallows. After one more potential anchorage also proved uninviting, we called the bridge tender who promptly opened the swing bridge to expel the invaders.

A nice anchorage, Godfrey Bay, further up the River provided good protection from the southern breezes and grand view of the half moon and its accompanying stars.

Data: 7:30 - 16:30. 907 engine hours. 58 km.

Solomon's Islands - Day 1

Departure

We finally left Haven Harbour Marina in Rock Hall, Md heading south on our second trip on the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. After a flight home before the holidays and a return in mid-January, we hope to reach the Bahamas in February.

A few last minute repairs delayed our departure for a day. It was with mixed emotions that we left Haven Harbour, our home away from home for the last seven years. Next year's plans call for taking Mint Julep to Rhode Island for the summer.

We caught a fair tide and made good time heading south past Annapolis to our traditional stopover at the Solomon's Islands off the Patuxent River, some 50 miles away. Since we departed just before noon, it was a real effort to reach an anchorage by nightfall. The annual migration is becoming evident with the crowded anchorages. We dropped the hook in Mill Creek, our favorite spot in the area.

Data: 11:30 to 19:00. 890 - 897 engine hours elapsed. Fill tanks in Rock Hall.